New
Orleans is known the wide world over
for its exotic
cuisine. Not surprisingly,
a number of linguistic idiosyncracies
crop up on local menus. To wit: andouille
(ahn-doo-ee) and boudin (boo-dan) are
both spicy Cajun sausages.
A beignet
(bin-yay) is a delicious square doughnut
liberally sprinkled with powdered sugar,
but the word is also used for fried tidbits
of fish served as an appetizer.
Chicory
(chik-o-ree) is an herb, the roots of
which are dried, ground, roasted, and
used to flavor the potent coffee we favor.
Cafe' au lait is half hot milk and half
chicory coffee, delicious with sweet,
sugary beignets.
Crawfish - enormously
popular in these parts -is a tiny critter
that resembles a miniature lobster. Locals
often called them "mudbugs" because
they live in the mud of freshwater streams.
Crawfish and shrimp turn up in a wide
variety of local dishes, including the
ubiquitous etouffee. In French, etouffee
(ay-too-fay) means "smothered";
in these parts it means a succulent,
tomato-based sauce in which crawfish
and shrimp are, well, smothered.
Jambalaya
(jum-boh-lie-ya), a culinary cousin of
Spanish paella, is a many-splendored
dish involving rice, tomatoes, ham, shrimp,
andouille, chicken, celery, onions and
spices.
You run across an array of gumbos
here. Gumbo is a thick, robust soup with
many variations (all of which include
rice), such as chicken and andouille,
okra gumbo, shrimp gumbo and file' (feelay)
gumbo. (Incidentally, file' is ground
sassafras.)
A mirliton is a hard-shelled
vegetable pear that's cooked like squash
and stuffed with spicy ground beef, ham,
or shrimp; and plantain, a member of
the banana family, is a sweetish vegetable
sidedish. Pain perdu (French for "lost
bread") is French toast made with
thick slices of French bread.
Red beans
and rice (a creamy mixture of kidney
beans, rice, sausages and seasonings)
is traditionally served on Mondays in
South Louisiana, the reason being that
after a weekend of rich brunches and
dinners, locals like to start the week
off with simple but hearty "stick-to-your-ribs" fare.
If you're accustomed to Southern BBQ,
a serving of New Orleans barbeque shrimp
will take you by surprise; it isn't "barbecued" at
all, but whole "peel-and-eat" shrimp
simmered in a zingy garlic-butter sauce.
Pralines (praw-leens), which can be found
in souvenir, candy, and gift shops all
over town, are sweet-sweet patties made
with sugar, butter, and pecans; there
are lots of variations, including a chocolaty
concoction.
Oysters - tons of which are
consumed by New Orleanians - are the
raison d'etre of Oysters Bienville and
Oysters Rockefeller, both of which originated
here. For the Bienville-style dish, oysters
are baked in their shells in a creamy
sauce flavored with shrimp, mushrooms,
and sometimes garlic or mustard. Named
for the fellow who sauce is made with
pureed greens flavored with anise liqueur.
Bananas Foster, an enormously popular
dessert, involves bananas sauteed in
butter, sugar, and cinnamon, then flamed
with cognac and served over vanilla ice
cream. The city's two sandwich extravaganzas
are po-boys and muffulettas. The former
(similar to submarines and heros) are
served on thick slabs of French bread
and include a dizzying variety of stuffings:
roast beef and gravy, ham, fried oysters,
fried shrimp, softshell crab and so on.
Muffulettas
are served on platter-sized seeded Italian
loaves slathered with
olive relish and heaped with Italian
meats and cheeses.
Oh, and incidentally "dressed" here
has nothing to do with attire: it means
a sandwich served "with the works".
Lagniappe (pronounced lan-yap) is a pleasant
little something extra. A bonus. Say,
13 doughnuts for the price of a dozen.
And last, but by no means least, "Laissez
les bons temps rouler!" That's a
Cajun phrase you'll hear often in this
part of the world. It means, "Let
the good times roll!" You bet, cher.
You betcha!
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